Death and destruction in Manali: Renaissance 

The smell of hash is heavy in my nose. At Renaissance I find myself with gluten-free nachos and pizza between my teeth. Alas, this turned out to good to be true. 

Manali consists of two parts; new and old Manali, separated by a river. Most tourists stay in old Manali where there are many hostels and cafes. Somewhere half way up the main street in old Manali you can find café Renaissance.

Gluten free Mexican and pizza

Google already suggested this restaurant in my search for gluten free food in Manali. After a disappointing salad at another restaurant the night before, I’m ready for something else. So in the morning I went in to ask about gluten-free food. The owner claims to make gluten-free pizza. Panic mode on. Because flour. In an oven. How clean can it be?

When we go back that evening to eat there, I am very tense. Remember this is only the second week of our journey.  Besides, I would find this a bit creepy in the Netherlands, this food, usually made of pure gluten. I ask all kinds of questions and also indicate that dairy products are out of the question.”Ah, so gluten-free and vegan.” Yes please! I order nachos with mushrooms and corn and am very nervous until everything arrives. Call me a coward, but I don’t dare pizza. I am told that all other pizzas are also baked in that oven. The interesting thing about this restaurant is that the kitchen is visible through a few large windows, so what’s happening in there is no secret. No stone oven, but a large stainless steel oven. Maybe pizza is something for the next visit if all goes well?

Spying

The cutting board is cleaned and the owner prepares my food himself. Marnix tells me this, he looks out on the kitchen. For the nachos he uses different types of flour. I believe rice flour, chickpea and something else that I have not remembered. The nachos arrive with a kind of cheesy sauce. Upon inquiry, this is a vegan sauce, of which the main ingredients are cashew nuts, coconut milk, pesto (milk-free?). 

I take my first bite and feel a bit shocked as it doesn’t taste gluten-free. It is very tasty, fat and incredibly heavy. I have to work hard to eat more than half, but it’s too good to leave! Marnix eats a vegan hamburger. This meal costs us 530 rupees including two glasses of coke, about 7,50 USD. No problems afterwards.

The restaurant

After dinner I have a chat with one of the waiters. He tells me they have seven years of experience making gluten-free foods. And besides, they buy all ingredients locally (except for the big jars of Nutella, everyone loves the stuff!). The owner is very aware of what he is doing in the kitchen. The interior consists of a few four-seater tables and a number of lower tables where you can sit with cushions.

Because we are in Manali there is smoking inside. Be prepared for the smell of hash! You can also order (gluten) hash brownies here.

The atmosphere is somewhat Christmasy with all the wires and lights hanging everywhere and going on and off. It gives a somewhat special atmosphere, but not unpleasant.

Pizza

I am a huge fan of pizza. Like really big. At this point I haven’t eaten bread for three weeks. No biggie, but I want pizza. So we go back and order two gluten-free, vegan meals: pizza margarita with champions and a Mexican dish. The gluten-free crust costs extra, just like the vegan cheese.

My pizza being created in the background; on a separate piece of counter where only gluten-free food is made, at least at the moment. The pizza crust is made from chickpea, rice and corn flour.

Oh my goodness

That pizza might be one of the very best I’ve ever eaten. No bullshit. The crust is crispy, the filling is creamy. And I just over the moon about the mushrooms. It’s insanely good.

And two hours later I am sick. It starts with a nasty headache, then me throwing up for hours until nothing comes out and my throat is raw. My stomach bloated. Gluten, for the first time in six years. Such immense misery. Is this the pizza or the Mexican dish? No idea, it should have been good. I have not missed being sick. It is truly tragic that this fantastic food turns out to be the reason. It was probably just a crumb lying around, since everything seemed clean and the cook was careful. Renaissance cafe is unfortunately not a safe choice for sensitive people.  

Looking for information about safe gluten-free eating in India? Read my post about gluten free in Himachal Pradesh or gluten free in North East India and don’t be put off by this bad one experience!