Frolicking around in the Himalaya: Gluten free hiking

Most people travel to Nepal do so to hike. No wonder with the Himalaya so nearby to wander about. We decided shortly in advance to hike for a couple of days. Nothing too difficult, we left our hiking gear at home. We were in Nepal because we were visiting a project and had some time to spare. In the end, we made the off-chance choice to go for it. Our choice was the Gorepani Poon Hill hike, which would be doable in 4-5 days. I did not really put a lot of effort in researching the food situation.

Turns out, en route to the top are many teahouses where you can sleep and eat. Spending the night is cheap, sometimes even free of charge when you buy your dinner and breakfast at your accommodation. Food is rather expensive, with prices two or three times higher than normal in Nepal. But then, everything has to be carried up the mountain since there are no proper roads. Every now and then you’ll see a human, horse or other pack animal carrying huge packages on their back. There is not so much choice food wise when you eat gluten free, but then there also isn’t when you can eat gluten. 

For many people Dal Bath will be the food of choice during hiking. It’s the best option when looking at the price/quantity/quality. The best news: it’s gluten free! 
Dal bath

I myself had no problem eating Dal Bath for a couple of days, I rather enjoyed it! I had no need for lunch (this might have been because of the change in height). Fried rice would have been available. Your choice in breakfast foods will be limited: omelette (a little light) or ‘set breakfast’. Which consists of fried potatoes and two eggs. Normally served with bread, butter and jam. Yoghurt is also available and will be an excellent option, even more so when you have brought gluten free muesli.

Snicker- and Mars bars are for sale along the way, for a high price. I brought my own snacks: peanuts, peanut bars, dates and dried fruit mix. Fruit is not always in available, depending upon the height of the mountain and season. It is less expensive to buy your snacks in Pohkara, but outside Lakeside for the cheapest options.

A picture containing outdoor, grass, herd, person

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 Close to Dashein, a Nepali festival, goats are sold to the locals, to slaughter during the feast. The goats listen to no-one and try to eat everything they see. They are very ungently guided with sticks
Out of luck

It is not really relaxed or easy to walk up a mountain with so many stairs, I can feel this endeavour for many days after. The first two days are really miserable, as it’s rains constantly and there is nothing to see because of heavy clouds and fog. We had very bad luck as the monsoon season was dragging on much longer than usual.   

A view of a snow covered mountain

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Day three: this insane view of the Annapurna Range, visible for a whole 15 minutes. Afterwards only heavy clouds. 

The Gorepani Poon Hill trek is fine with a gluten-free diet, surprisingly enough. I just had to show my diet card and no worries. Often, people frowned a little at me when I asked if there was anything gluten or milk related present in Dal Bath (I still did ask thought, every time). I always find this a good sign. I have not been sick at all and did not worry. Wanna know more about this hike? Read the report from Mark Wiens, who writes in more detail about the meals he eats. 

General tips
  • Bring your own snacks (nuts, bars, potato chips) with you from Pokhara or Kathmandu. You will be able to find something during the trip (at least when doing this hike) but it will be expensive. Besides, some backup snacks never come amiss, just in case. 
  • Get ready to eat Nepali food: dal bath, fried eggs, rice and potatoes. ‘Western’ food (pasta, pizza, macaroni) obviously is not available for you. Unfortunately, neither are momos and spring rolls. It can be boring, eating the same over and over, but it is safe. Fruit will be all right too. 
  • Take your own muesli for breakfast, as pancakes and chapati’s are not an option. Fried eggs and set breakfast are, but it will be a hungry affair if, by any chance you can’t have this. 
Other hikes

How things look at other hiking trails like Everest basecamp, I do not know. We might have tried the Annapurna circuit if we’d had more time. I do think the situation is similar as with this hike, but I don’t know for sure. In this article of Travel is Zen you can find some examples of food at the Annapurna circuit. And if you have any experience with hiking in Nepal, please help others and do leave a comment.

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