Gluten free in Northeast India - This might be gluten free

This area in India consists of seven states, also known as the “seven sisters.” There is still relatively little tourism in most of this region and therefore no information about gluten free in Northeast India. A blessing, because untainted by mass tourism. And a curse because, what about the food?

This part of India is bordered by several countries: China to the north, Bhutan to the west, Myanmar to the south and east. With Bangladesh to the west to almost cut these states off from the rest of India. Moreover, there are an incredible number of different tribes living in Northeast, with their own languages and eating habits. I admit that I felt a slight panic when I found out about this.

Dzuku vallei, Nagaland. Talkin' about a view. — Dzuku vallei, Nagaland. Talkin’ about a view.

Caution!

Hing/Asafoetida: a tasty powder that is often used in Indian dishes. It is a somewhat sticky substance, and is often mixed with flour to make it more manageable. Often found in Masala spice mixes from stores, in papadum or snack bags. Gram/besan: Chickpea flour which is naturally gluten-free is sometimes mixed with maida. Maida = pure gluten. This made me very sick. Also there have been a number of times when I felt a little ‘off’ for no good reason. I think I ate some of this by accident.

Nagaland

Our first stop in Northeast. Most people speak a local dialect as well as English. Hindi is also used here as an ‘extra’ language.

I am told by a local that rice, meat and vegetables are the usual combination at a meal. In addition to rice, the menu actually always includes fried rice, chow (noodles, gluten), momos (dumplings, therefore gluten) and curry with meat. Pork, chicken, fish and mutton are often on the menu as curry, but dog is also sold in some places. One of my Indian friends laughed loudly when I asked him why there were so few stray dogs… But I have no idea if they really disappear into kitchens! They actually might.

Vegetable rice

There is little choice in the small restaurants or “rice hotels”. Vegetable rice is fortunately sold almost everywhere from what I’ve seen. It consists of a mountain of white rice, dry potato “something”, boiled cabbage, lentils and a chutney. Chutney is a spicy side dish that is usually made by mashing and mixing chili peppers, fermented fish, salt and maybe a tomato or potato.

I’ve eaten it several times; the recipe seems much the same everywhere. I am not entirely sure about the papedum in this part of India. I asked about it several times but nobody seemed to know what’s it made of. ‘We buy them at the store.’Well, that’s not good enough for me.

Veg rice. Marnix has already eaten half of the papadum, also called “papper”. With a plate of Chow in the background; pure gluten.

Fried rice is also often available with vegetables, egg or meat. Soy sauce is used in cooking here, so always check.

The food doesn’t get more local than this right. Clean? Certainly not. Clean pans? Meh. Rinse off food that falls into the sand? Meh. Use a rusty machete to cut meat? Yup. Well, at leas everything is cooked.

Meghalaya

Next stop. We spent very little time here, so it is difficult to say much about this part. We visited the “living bridges”. In this area (just above Bangladesh) there is not much to be found in terms of restaurants. If you want food, you have to order it where you stay, or take it with you. The food served by a homestay is not the same everywhere. In the area you can buy snacks such as chips, boiled eggs, bananas and maybe an omelette.

There are sometimes stalls along the road selling roasted corn on the cob. In the south of Meghalaya, the food was a bit more like the food in Nagaland: rice, boiled vegetables and dry curry. As you get higher up, the food gradually becomes more and more ‘Indian’, so to speak. On the plates of restaurants are different curries and thalies (variant of the veg. rice) to lure you in.

Assam

There is a lot of food to be found in Guwahati, the capital of Assam. ‘Ordinary’ restaurants and more expensive establishments. Biryani, fried rice, thalis and dosas (the wafer-thin lentil pancakes that are usually gluten-free) seemed you can find these food everywhere. Idly, a fermented rice pancake in a few places. Parts of Nagaland and Meghalaya really feel different from the rest of India. Assam seems like the fringe area; the north, central and south of Assam are all different from each other. Which food can be found where depends on your location. Orange, limes, and pomegranates seem to be all over the place. A special dish that is only eaten in Assam is pigeon. So if you are in an adventurous mood …

Small deep-fried balls of lentils and potentially rice flour. Sometimes with a filling of potato, egg, vegetables or peppers, or all. Looks dreadfully gluten. And they may be sometimes, so ask! This is sometimes prepared with gluten. Pakoras are also an interesting snack in other parts of India!

Food options

The food people often eat at home is white rice and dal with various side dishes of mixed vegetables, fish and meat. Pickle and chutney are often served alongside. This is a standard lunch, but is also eaten during dinner (between ten and noon).

One of the delicious meals we were served during our visit in Assam. An ‘ordinary’ lunch for an Indian family. Here two types of vegetable curry, a fish curry with potatoes and rice. Lunch time: a quarter past three.

In winter, cooking is often done in the garden over an open fire in Assam. Trays with ingredients get carried out whilepotatoes roast in the fire.

Our visit was during Bihu, a harvest festival that is celebrated in mid-January. To really experience this you actually have to visit a village, preferably with a local to guide you. During the Assamese holidays, special snacks are served, the ingredients of which are all the same: rice flour, coconut (shavings) and jaggary. The taste is always different!

Tea, coconut shavings, Pittu (roll of fried rice flour and coconut syrup filling. In addition, different types of coconut balls: with coconut oil, jaggary and sesame seeds. And a gluten biscuit for Marnix, which makes the coconut shavings somewhat so scary.

Bihu is all about the fire! This mountain was a huge fireball seconds later. Most people are starting to run from here. Spot the Marnix.

Arunachal Pradesh

Rejoice! Rice is available everywhere. We only visit Ziro and Itanager for a very short time, so the info was limited and probably not applicable to the whole area.

So what’s on the menu of a typical fast food restaurant? The dishes on offer seem to be about the same everywhere in this part of the region. A breakfast food selection: maggi (gluten) omelette and rice. Some gluten stuff like Parathas. For lunch rice, with vegetables, chicken, fish or beef. I believe they actually eat cow here, but it could be buffalo too. A number of Chinese items, all gluten, such as Chow, Momos and Thukpa. Furthermore curry with different types of meat. Soup. Baked rice. The choice for me is not that big, but I am not starving by any means. I enjoy rice with vegetables or egg, so I’m fine.

‘Egg rice’ with a creepy papedum / papper that I quickly transfer to Marnix. Dal, boiled vegetables and curry.

Apatani

The Atapani tribe lives in the area we visit. They have their own specific dishes, which are probably only found in homestays. Or in our case at someone’s home. There are very few restaurants in the villages around Ziro.

Kajji: Rice with an insanely spicy sauce, made from dried fish, green beans, spinach and an awful lot of green chilies. I swear I could breathe fire after eating this.

If you get the chance, try Sudu! A specialty in Apatani cuisine. This dish is made in green bamboo sticks that are filled with rice, chicken, pork, egg or vegetables. In some only one ingredient is put in, in others a mix. They are placed upright next to a fire so that the inside is steamed. The smell of bamboo lingers in the food and it has its own taste!

Eervolle vermelding: Apo

Apo. But the name for the rice wine that locals use is O. Made from fermented rice, the wine is flavored with a kind of black lentil and masala spice cake (really gluten free, I drank it carefree). Made locally and sold in 2 liter bottles for around 50 rupees. During the music festival in September, this is sold to tourists with a nice profit.

If this doesn’t float your boat: there is a factory in Hong that makes kiwi wine. There is a price tag attached to this; for 1000 rupees per bottle this is not the cheapest option. FYI, Old Monk, the rum that all of India drinks, is dirt cheap in Hapoli at just 80 rupees for a quarter of a liter. Not to give anyone ideas …

There you go! Northeast India really is very doable gluten free! Interested in more information about food in India? Also read my article on Gluten Free in Himachal Pradesh.

Gluten: 2x

Lactose: 1x